Victor Carhuapomah

La Naranja, Cajamarca, Peru

Process: Washed
Varietal: Gesha
Producer: Victor Carhupomah

Altitude: 1713 MASL
Region: Cajamarca, Peru

Production: 5 Bags

COMMUNITY CONTEXT

La Naranja is Victor Carhuapoma’s farm in San Ignacio, Cajamarca, where certified organic production combines coffee with plantain, yuca, and vituca. Victor’s work reflects the shift among smallholders in northern Peru toward greater diversification and specialty ambition.

While caturra remains a foundation, he has invested in exotic varieties such as gesha and pache—varieties that demand care but offer higher cup potential and market value. Intercropping helps balance risk and food security, while also supporting soil health. Though small in scale, La Naranja is emblematic of a broader movement in Cajamarca, where farmers are experimenting with varieties and agronomic practices to link organic farming traditions with emerging specialty markets.

COUNTRY CONTEXT

Wedged against both Colombia and Brazil—the giants of South American coffee—Peru’s reputation as a source of high- quality Arabica has never matched that of its neighbors. Coffee arrived in the mid-18th century with Jesuit missionaries, grown mostly for domestic use until the late 1800s. In 1886, the Grace Contract transferred railways and millions of hectares of highland territory to the British in exchange for retiring Peru’s war debts. Much of this land was developed into coffee estates, and exports began in earnest the following year.

Labor came from the indigenous communities of the highlands, who worked plantations through debt bondage or in pursuit of opportunity. When the British withdrew, many of these same families acquired or reclaimed the land, beginning Peru’s smallholder tradition. Agrarian Reform in the 1960s deepened that transition—redistributing estates, organizing campesinos into cooperatives, and making Cusco a center of cooperative-led production. By the 1970s, state-supported cooperatives exported over 80% of Peru’s coffee under the International Coffee Agreement (ICA). With quotas guaranteed, however, many of those coops grew stagnant, marked by inflexibility, nepotism, and corruption. When the ICA collapsed in 1989, so too did prices and Peru’s export systems. Fujimori-era neoliberal reforms dissolved the Agrarian Bank and left farmers without credit or safety nets. Rural insecurity fueled migration and the violence of the Shining Path conflict, driving many in southern Peru into coca production. Those who remained in coffee often turned to organic and Fair Trade certifications, which didn’t immediately raise cup quality but did raise incomes. Peru grew to become the world’s largest exporter of certified organic coffee—a status it still holds.

Today, specialty production’s focal points stretch up and down the country, with Cajamarca, San Martín, and Amazonas in the north, Junín in the center, and Cusco and Puno in the south. High elevations, diverse microclimates, and traditional plantings of Typica (still over 70%) give Peru remarkable potential, including relatively good supply of high-quality varietals like Gesha taking root after a 1964 FAO mission. Roughly 223,000 smallholders grow coffee on farms averaging under three hectares, yet only a quarter belong to cooperatives—and many of those still struggle with leadership and market alignment.

For these reasons, Peru remains both promising and precarious: a country of immense quality potential, structured around smallholders, but still without sufficient systems to bring the coffees forward.